Keep away - I want it to myself!
I have the extraordinary good fortune to have friends who own a house in the Chianti Classico region of Tuscany, in the heart of John Mortimers "Chiantishire". It is near Gaiole-in-Chianti just to the north of Siena and is a stunning spot with wide views across the valley to the east, south and west (where, on the skyline, you can see Vagliagli fondly known as "Vaguely Ugly"). The house goes back, in parts, probably 400 years, maybe more, and has the typical appearance of a longish two-storey building with an extra storey on the middle bit. Traditionally, this was a dove-cot and other facilities would include a wood-fired bread oven, a pigsty, a chicken house, a stall for a sheep (for its wool mainly) a vineyard and an olive orchard all of which are either evident but no longer used for the original purpose or (in the case of the oven, the vineyard and the olive orchard) still in use. My friends eat the grapes, not enough to make wine which they buy bottled by the 50 litres from their neighbours, but one of my trophies of this years visit is a bottle of their own olive oil pressed by the local co-operative from their own olives.
It is a privileged view of life in this idyllic part of the world and I do urge anyone thinking of visiting Tuscany for the first time to stay at least part of the time away from the cities, wonderful though they are but hot and crowded, and stay in some of the little towns like Radda-in-Chiani or to rent an apartment in one of the many restored farm houses or castles which dot the area. These small towns and villages are stunningly beautiful, many with well preserved or restored mediaeval walls and buildings. The British in particular are well-received here because it was they who started the move towards buying and restoring the derelict farms which and been abandoned by the owners who could no longer eke out a living on the land. They have now been joined by Germans, Swiss and northern Italians (Genoese particularly). The area is now prosperous with the wine trade booming resulting in new vineyards springing up but, mysteriously, with the rows of vines running up and down the slope - Id have thought that would encourage erosion! (PS - It has been pointed out to me that this is to encourage even distribution of sunlight - I suppose it helps, two sides have sunlight rather than only one, but Im still not convinced that having rain pour down the slope between the rows is a good idea - but then, Im not a vintner.)
Read John Mortimers "Summers Lease" or Spenders "In Tuscany" (both Penguin) for a flavour. I fly Meridiana Gatwick to Florence - I cant recommend a travel agent specialising in Toscana since I dont have need of one - and join me in the ancient splendours of San Gimignano or for "Brecchi in Lecchi". It is a magical place - and if you dont believe me, imagine finding a local opera company rehearsing "Otello" in a mediaeval square which you can watch entirely free in the gathering dusk or seeing "La Traviata" in Il Campo in Siena, also free but this time in performance, and you get the idea.
Further PS - I have transferred my loyaltiy to Ryanair - at the height of the 2001 season, I have booked a return flight Stansted to Pisa for £8.00 plus taxes and charges, total £27.80! Bad timing again - Ill miss the Palio by 2 days!
