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I originally went to Holland to go and see the capital of the Netherlands- Amsterdam!
Denmark is a country which I love with a passion. It's not that I've travelled it extensively or know a great deal about it, more that, if I was forced to live elsewhere on this planet, it would be there.
I've visited about a dozen times over the last 20 years or so but never ventured further than Jylland (Jutland, the mainland). No, I've never even been to Copenhagen but have heard from many who have that it does indeed live up to the song lyrics. One day I'll get round to it.
Why haven't I visited elsewhere? I don't know really. I suppose it's because I've just never got round to it because everything we want can be found within a short ride. We have friends who hire us their summerhouse right on the beach three miles outside Esbjerg. Everything we need is nearby and the kids are happy on the beach. We have visited a few places, of course and last year we even managed a two hundred mile round trip to visit Denmark's highest point in their lake district near Silkeborg.
We've been to Legoland, naturally. It's situated at Billund, in the centre of Jutland, about 40 miles from Esbjerg and is a brilliant day out for everyone and has some fantastic stuff apart from the usual models and rides. Because of the exchange rate of the last couple of years, it's also been fantastically cheap.
Which brings me on to the cost of living. About the same as here, believe it or not. Everyday goods are relatively cheap compared to the UK although expect to pay a premium on certain foods and drink. Some of the price can be recouped when buying bottles because nearly all bottles have a refundable deposit (even the plastic ones). This explains why you hardly ever see them littering the streets. In fact, Denmark has one of the more enlightened environmental policies in the EU. Regular collections are made of paper and glass and there are fines if you get caught putting something recyclable in with the normal rubbish (clear bags - clever). Wind farms are common place and seem to be accepted. Probably because there isn't a great deal of picturesque landscape on Jutland's westcoast. Don't get me wrong, it's not boring, it's just not exceptional. One of the most stunning sites you'll see anywhere though, is the wind farm on the east side of the Ringkobing Fjord. We were driving along the west side and looking across and gave up counting at 400 turbines.
So, what's so special about the place then? Again, it's not something I can readily put my finger on. Imagine a country which was until a few years back, about 20 years behind Britain. No - not Britain, England specifically. The Danes were great fans of the English and seemed to have adopted an archetypal English way of life. You couldn't move for Austin Cambridges in the 60's apparently (according to my in-laws who've been going for about 40 years). They still have that fascination with us, although now not quite so profound, even though their society has moved on and become more international. Until a few years ago, they guarded their borders quite jealously. The only immigrants were from Greenland, the Faroes and Iceland. This is not through any rampant xenophobia; they are fascinated by other cultures, just like most of us. It's because the country is small and has no natural resources except for the land. Planning regulations are still very stringent and building land is at a premium. They have a fierce pride in their country (most adults remain on the reserve) which is amply illustrated by the number of houses displaying a Danish pennant outside, usually at the top of a very large flagpole. The colours are everywhere; on houses, in shops, on cars and even on more prosaic things such as menus. But this ubiquity is not seen as anything potentially threatening as it would be here although it is often misunderstood by and confused with something more sinister and yes, Denmark does have its fair share of lunatics who are just as derided there as they are over here.
Their fascination with us and all things English could be illustrated by what happened to us last year. My wife and I were invited by our friends' 11 year old son to visit his school. We dutifully turned up at 8am to be greeted by the teacher who explained that they had just started learning English and they wanted to show off. The usual stuff ensued, everyone introducing themselves and telling us their ages etc. and then some questions and answers. We had great fun (what was surprising, everyone, including teacher, was on first name terms) but what really sealed it for the kids was when they saw us off from the car park. I drive a shiny red Rover 600 and we felt like royalty. When I pointed out the longboat badge, I became a deity! Somehow, I don't think my old Citroen would have had the same effect.
The people are politeness personified and will usually go out of their way to help you and nearly all have a smattering of English, even in rural areas. Most of the shops shut at 2 on Saturdays although one Saturday per month is called long Saturday and they stay open until 5. There is no Sunday opening as yet.
What is there to do then? Eat, drink and be merry. Plenty of restaurants and bars for starters. Esbjerg, "our" area, has loads, mainly congregated around the central square (Torvet).
In fact, Esbjerg is a particularly vibrant cultural centre with symphony orchestras, theatre, art galleries, museums (The Seafaring Museum and aquarium is a favourite of mine) and concert halls for both classical and modern. Every August there is a cultural festival which takes in everything - both aesthetic and sporting and culminates in a huge concert and firework display. This small city of 100 000 or so really does have a big city mentality. If you are more of a sporting type then there is plenty of golf and loads of fishing, either in the rivers or in the rather unsporting (unless you can get a good one) "put and take" trout lakes. Although these now seem to be favourite destinations for huge families of the burgeoning Turkish population to go on a Saturday afternoon, so if you're hoping for a bit of piece of quiet, forget it! It also goes without saying that being a nice flat country (the highest point is only about 150 metres) the cycling is superb especially as there is a massive network of cycle paths.
The other major towns in the area are Varde to the north-east and Ribe to the South and both have something to offer. Varde is pretty good for antiques and the view from the top of Ribe Cathedral is awesome but you have to negotiate some pretty hairy steps first. Further afield on Jutland but still within a days' drive is Aarhus, another popular visitor centre on the Baltic coast. All the main islands are now connected by bridges which cuts down journey times considerably but beware tolls!
Driving in Denmark is a dream. If you are in any way bothered about driving on the right then this is the place to get used to it. The roads are usually deserted and are as flat as shirtfronts. Speed limits are roughly the same as ours and there are no daft traffic rules except that dipped headlights must be on all the time. Which isn't daft at all and you really miss it when you get home. One thing - try and avoid Saturdays on certain major routes. These are changeover days for the German holiday market and as each area in Germany has defined holiday periods, vast sections of Hanseatic humanity floods in and out of the country. The Germans love Denmark. The Danes by and large, loathe the Germans who see Denmark as some kind of giant private Butlins, but they will happily take their money!
As for getting there; well, there are many regional airports now accepting flights from the UK. Esbjerg has flights to and from Aberdeen and Birmingham, Billund from Gatwick and of course Copenhagen is a major international hub. There are among others, airports at Aarhus and Odense.
My favourite way is with the DFDS ferry from Harwich. It's pretty reasonable and the ferry is more like a liner with cinemas, restaurants bars and cabaret shows. The kids are well looked after with their own activities and disco. The ferry, The Dana Anglia, will be well known those who remember and revere the late "Triangle" starring Kate O'Mara, as this piece of televisual legend was largely filmed on board. One year, as I was travelling alone, I took the DFDS freight service (phone DFDS and ask). It's cheaper but pretty basic with nothing to do except sit in the mess and read or walk about on the limited deck space. Having said that, what there is is pretty well appointed and if you can stand the boredom is well worth it to save a few quid. A word of warning though, 'phone well in advance to register an interest. You won't be able to confirm until a couple of weeks in advance but you can be a pain and keep reminding them you would like a berth! Sailings are dependent on the prevailing trade conditions and are not set in stone so be prepared to change your plans at the last moment.
I've been boring you long enough. Precis - The people are sooo sooo nice and welcoming, very polite and love Brits; the food and drink is not cheap but great and there is loads to do. GO!
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